Reimagine, Revive, Return
Milan Fashion Week
Commonly known as the influential capital of fashion trends, Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 season felt more restrained, especially in comparison to other fashion capitals discussed further in this article. This season, subtle intellectualism took the spotlight, while spectacles played a less prominent role.
Prada’s all-skirt collection
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons unveiled a collection dedicated entirely to skirts for Spring/Summer 2027, featuring 63 looks. As the opening show, Prada set the tone for the rest of Milan Fashion Week. The pairing of expressive skirts with bras, worn instead of usual tops was the central statement of the collection.
This season, every look revolved around the skirt. Perhaps Miuccia Prada was making up for the previous collection devoted entirely to denim, a fabric Raf Simons is known to adore but Prada herself is less enthusiastic about.
Vogue World: robots taking over
Milan Fashion Week has always been associated with craftsmanship when every detail reflects time, experience, and care invested in the creation process. This year, however, the fashion industry examined human creativity in the age of AI. Vogue World added an unexpected twist, closing the runway with the showcase of seemingly soulless robots that attempted to hype up the public and win its applause, accompanied by the children’s choir.
The performance sparked a wave of discussion on social media. Many users turned Alessano Michele’s “unimpressed” reaction into a meme, captioning the moment: “My honest reaction when I saw these robots.”
London Fashion Week
Di Petsa Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear collection
The fashion capital of experimental and extraordinary spirit was definitely marked by Di Petsa’s collection, titled HOLY MILK, in which founder and designer Dimitra Petsa explored motherhood and the idea of giving birth to new versions of ourselves throughout life. The models on the runway were either expecting a child or already mothers, with some carrying babies or others holding a glass of milk. The appearance of pregnant model Leigh-Anne Pinnock on the runway, with milk flowing from her breasts, was the most mesmerizing moment, depicting the genuineness of motherhood.
Alexander McQueen’s return to its roots
Speaking of British fashion, the Alexander McQueen fashion show was held at the historic Lincoln’s Inn Chapel, whose setting perfectly captured the house’s signature Gothic aesthetic blended with the theatricality and dark romanticism. The runway was particularly significant as the fashion house returned to LFW for the Spring/Summer 2027 collection. The return was symbolic, as it brings the brand back to the city where it originated and where Lee Alexander McQueen built his career.
«This collection is a celebration of London’s ceaselessly stimulating and transcendent power. McQueen is a London-born house, and the city’s uncompromising attitude and subversive spirit sit at its very heart.» — Seán McGirr, Creative Director, said on Alexander McQueen’s official website.
New York Fashion Week
Known for its commercial focus, New York Fashion Week featured 63 runway shows and 126 fashion events in total on the official Spring/Summer 2027 calendar. Marc Jacobs kicked off the season ahead of the official schedule on August 29, and then brands such as Ralph Lauren, Coach, Cult Gaia, and Rachel Comey presented their collections on September 9.
Diane Von Furstenberg long-awaited comeback
The New York Fashion Week had audiences anticipated, in part because many were curious to see what Henry Zankov would present for his debut as artistic director of the iconic luxury brand. Diane von Furstenberg’s own insights, the Belgian designer and founder of the fashion brand, served as a North Star for Zankov, whose SS27 collection centered on the idea of ‘body language’. In other words, the relationship between clothing and the body and how clothes communicate with the world around us. It marked DVF’s return to the runway after a nine-year absence caused by financial struggles, leadership changes, and retail declines.
Steven Kolb and PETA Activists scandal
NYFW was also remembered for a confrontation that arose between Steven Kolb, now former CEO of Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) activists. While models were presenting the COS SS27 collection, protesters stormed the stage with banners calling out the treatment of sheep in wool production.
The situation escalated when Kolb personally interfered and physically restrained two activists. This moment was captured on video and immediately went viral, sparking widespread backlash. Following the incident, Kolb initially took a voluntary leave of absence while the case was reviewed by the CFDA. On September 18, he announced his resignation after two decades of leadership.
Paris Fashion Week
The birthplace of high fashion closed the show season on a high note. The number of Maisons impressed the public not only with its designs but also with its creative approach to presentation as usual.
Louis Vuitton: Flying cars
The future is almost here! Nicolas Ghesquière took his guests into a futuristic world for the Louis Vuitton SS27 show, where flying cars set the scene at Cour Carrée du Louvre, a main square courtyard at the Louvre in Paris. Yet, beneath the sci-fi setting, the collection showcased lightweight fabrics and fluid silhouettes, such as silk slip dresses.
At first there is no vivid correlation between the set and the collection. However, Louis Vuitton explained on their official website that “near-weightless garments” reflect futuristic vehicles, thus depicting life in motion. The location was also a highlight in itself as the “hovering concept vehicles evoke the House’s Art of Travel against a backdrop of historic grandeur.”
American actress Zendaya was also spotted sitting in the front row. The spectacular setting recalled Chanel’s iconic rocket station from its Fall 2017 show with its futuristic vehicles.
Antibiblioteca by Valentino
Alessandro Michele explored the metaphor of unread books through a show titled Antibiblioteca. The models took a long route through the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, a Parisian historic monument and university library. The looks seemed to resemble those very unread books on a shelf – mysterious, intriguing and full of untold stories – and ranged as widely as books do in genre. Every guest was invited to bring a meaningful book and donate it to the library at the entrance.
Yves Saint Laurent – A golden goodbye from Vaccarello!
Anthony Vaccarello presented his final collection as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent after leading the luxury house for a decade. The runway charted a number of shimmering gold looks that paid tribute to the house’s legacy, accompanied by dramatic music with the Eiffel Tower in the background. To commemorate the moment, Vaccarello also shared an emotional farewell, writing, “A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains.”
Over the past years, Anthony Vaccarello has strengthened the brand’s visual identity while increasing its commercial growth. He has proved a worthy successor to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent, as both designers have prioritized women’s comfort and shared a genuine passion for dressing them.
If you’re already missing the show season, MNU Newsroom prepared an article that immerses you in the industry by collecting seven iconic moments that defined fashion weeks as we know it on MNU Newsroom.
